Sacred seas – Ouessant to Amsterdam

The ‘Four’ lighthouse and Ile d’Ouessant are to the sailing World what Cape Canaveral is to kids: something very exciting but also not exactly a kindergarden, and very, very tough to get into. Turn the corner and everything changes: the coast, the water color, the sky, the temperature. The mood and the atmosphere. Light dim, winter approaches, sounds soften. And the coastline gets crazy. Oh so crazy. True, there is a long beach like along the south side of the peninsula, but here it’s far, far behind a formidable superfortress of rocks, islets and shoals. Geography, if we do not want to be mystic, was really in a torrid mood when creating this coast.


The first port for the lucky E-bound sailor has a name that defies the most eccentric voice, L’ Aber W’rach, even if the position of the ‘ is doubtful. In geometry a line is defined as the only possible chance to hit two single points in one go.  A course on the other side is the line that avoids every single dangerous point in one go.  Well, the natives had to study a lot to find two different tracks to get from the sea into this Aber (or creek).  There is an unbelievable number of rocks, and such is the abundance that it needed an eccentric fantasy to name them all. And it’s here, right in this place, that I found my favorite name as far as rocks are concerned: ‘Le Pot au Beurre‘. Such has been the feeling between the Pot au Beurre and Cadeau that they ended up to see each other frequently for different reasons, because three out of four or out departure attempts have been failures, one to the weather and two to mechanical problems. This gave us the time to indulge in some explorations, and its here that we discovered why these folks are good sailors: they just given nothing else to do and think about. Tell them to make a drawing and here is the result:

3The bus collects the kids from the school and here they are in the harbor, dressed like every kid is in the western world, ready jump on their optimist and set sails. Other kids around the planet kick footballs, here they steer boats.

The channel to get out of L’Aber Wrach is impressive enough with  a regular fair weather swell, I cannot even imagine how it can be with horrible seas.


Cherbourg is a place where the sacred font in the church is a shell.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *